September 10. This is the statistical peak date of the hurricane season in the Atlantic, according to the NOAA National Hurricane Center. The Exumas, a chain of cays in the center of the Bahamas, lie right in this basin.
The turquoise water photos say nothing about this date. They also say nothing about the current in the passes, the fishing rules of the national park, nor what your operator does when the wind picks up.
Here we take up the old version of this guide, remove what did not hold up, and keep a simple framework: level, current, season, supervision, fallback plan.
What level is needed to dive in the Exumas?
No single level applies to the entire archipelago. The sheltered reefs on the bank side, shallow, often suit supervised beginners. The passes between the cays, where the tide pushes water between the bank and the Exuma Sound, require more skill. The site chosen on the day decides more than the name of the destination.
The old version of this article promised “moderate currents suitable for all” across the entire archipelago, without stating the source of this claim. Nothing confirms it. The current in a pass depends on the tide time, the day’s coefficient, and the wind, and it can go from none to strong in less than an hour, which no brochure can predict for you. So ask the operator, site by site. Also ask what certification they require for a drift dive, and what they plan when the group mixes beginners and autonomous divers. However, this answer must come before payment.
The required level changes from one tide to another.
| Criterion | What can be said | What to ask |
|---|---|---|
| Level | Shallow reefs accessible to supervised beginners, passes rather for comfortable autonomous divers | Certification required site by site, number of recent dives |
| Current | Strong in passes depending on tide, variable elsewhere | Time of entry, drift procedure, signaling buoy |
| Season | Hurricane season from June 1 to November 30, peak around September 10 (NOAA) | Cancellation and rescheduling policy in case of alert |
| Supervision | Variable depending on operator, impossible to decide from here | Group size, guide in the water, oxygen on board |
| Fallback plan | Sheltered sites on the bank side when the Sound is rough | List of fallback sites, rule if the outing is canceled |
When to go to the Exumas, and what about the hurricane season?
The Atlantic hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30, according to NOAA. The peak falls around September 10, and most activity is concentrated between mid-August and mid-October. Going from December to May avoids this risk, without guaranteeing calm seas.
The old version announced a “best season” from October to April. However, October still falls, according to NOAA, within the window where most cyclonic activity is concentrated. We removed it. It also gave water “constantly between 24 and 26 °C” and visibility of 30 to 40 meters, without source or date. The Bahamas water is cooler in winter than in late summer, and visibility varies depending on wind, tide, and site, so these figures are useless without month or place. Ask the operator the temperature recorded the month of your trip. Plan your suit accordingly.
Winter has its own drawback.
But it is nothing like a hurricane. Wind gusts linked to cold fronts can stir the Exuma Sound for a few days, and a serious cruise or center then retreats to sheltered sites. In short, the season reduces a risk. It does not replace the daily weather or the briefing.
What does the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park protect?
Created in 1958, the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park is the first marine reserve of the Bahamas and the Caribbean in the broad sense, according to the Bahamas National Trust which manages it. It covers 112,640 acres of land and sea, about 456 km², with coral reefs, mangroves, and seagrass beds.
The park is a no-take zone. The Bahamas National Trust prohibits all fishing, shell collecting, and conch harvesting there. Entrance fees apply, mooring buoys are spread throughout the park, and the headquarters is located at Warderick Wells, reachable on VHF channel 09, with emergency monitoring on channel 16. The fee amounts were not listed on the page consulted on October 3, 2026. Check them before you leave.
For you, the consequence is simple. You watch, you don’t pick anything up. Thus, an empty shell taken as a souvenir remains an infraction in the park, even if it seems worthless. The same reflex applies to corals, and we explain in our article why you should never touch marine life what a simple contact can damage.
Regarding sunscreen, choose your protection before departure by reading what sunscreen really does to marine environments, rather than relying on a “reef safe” label whose meaning varies from one brand to another.
Channels and drifts: what to ask before jumping in?
The passes of the Exumas, like the one guides call “The Washing Machine,” are drift dives where the tidal current does the work. They are popular for this reason. They require a water entry timed with the tide, a boat that follows the bubbles, and a surface buoy for each diver.
The magazine Scuba Diving described in 2014 this “Washing Machine” as water that spins and carries divers before releasing them above a small drop-off. This description sets the tone. Yet it says nothing about the current speed, the required level, or the entry time, and these three points are settled on site, during the briefing, with the tide time in view. If the operator doesn’t mention the tide, ask for it. If no one stays on the boat, give up. A safety sausage and a sound signaling device are part of the minimum equipment for this type of dive.
Also keep an eye on your air supply.
A drift often ends farther than expected, and the ascent is made in open water. Before departure, reread our guide to read and interpret your dive pressure gauge, and coordinate your reserve with your buddy. The sites mentioned in the old version (Amberjack Reef, Pilar Wall, Jeep Reef, and others) could not be verified with an official source, so we cannot promise their location or what you will see there.
Cruise or land stay: which option to choose?
The dive cruise gives access to the central keys and the park without long transfers, and it is often the easiest way to chain the sites of the Sound and the bank. The land stay offers more flexibility if the sea rises, but distant sites then cost hours of boat time.
The old version mentioned Small Hope Bay Lodge as an example of a specialized hotel in the Exumas. This establishment is located on Andros Island, another island in the Bahamas. We have removed it. It also mentioned an archipelago of “more than 700 islands,” a figure often given for the entire Bahamas and not just the Exumas. If you compare the Bahamas with other destinations in the region, our guide to diving in the Bahamas and that of the Cayman Islands raise the same questions.
No option guarantees an animal encounter.
And the real difference lies in the fallback plan. On a boat, ask what happens if two days of diving are canceled due to wind, and if these days are refunded, postponed, or lost. On land, ask if the dive center goes to the bank side when the Sound is closed. A cruise in September at a low price, without a clear clause, can cost you the entire trip. Would you book it that way?
FAQ
What is the best time to dive in the Exumas?
From December to May, you stay outside the hurricane season, which runs from June 1 to November 30 according to NOAA. Winter cold fronts can stir the sea for a few days. Ask about the cancellation policy, whatever the date.
Can you fish or collect shells in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park?
No. The Bahamas National Trust prohibits all fishing, shell collecting, and conch harvesting within the park boundaries. Entrance fees apply, to be checked before departure.
Are the Exumas suitable for beginner divers?
Some shallow and sheltered reefs are suitable, with appropriate supervision. The passes with strong tidal currents are rather aimed at autonomous and confident divers. The decision is up to the professional on site, site by site.
How to contact the Exumas National Park at sea?
The park headquarters, at Warderick Wells, answers on VHF channel 09. Channel 16 remains on emergency watch, according to the Bahamas National Trust.
Sources
- Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park (Bahamas National Trust, accessed in 2026)
- Tropical Cyclone Climatology (NOAA, National Hurricane Center, accessed in 2026)
